On my latest trip to the Italian countryside I decided to experiment with a smaller suitcase.  The question was "can I go away for three weeks with only a backpack and a 17" roller bag?"
My usual suitcase is 22" and has an expandable zipper.  It was quite a bit bigger in volume than the small metal case I finally chose.

Besides the challenge of traveling with less, I do prefer being able to carry all of my luggage on board the plane, especially at the beginning of the journey.  Having lost luggage once, for the first five days of a trip, I find myself less trusting of the airlines, not to mention all of the new fees being imposed.

Sometimes I use packing cubes which are nice for organization as well as compacting the items inside the case. However, this time I just rolled all of the clothing and tucked it into the suitcase at all different angles. Since it was still very warm weather the clothes were all lightweight making room for more clothing than if I had needed cold weather gear.  Here's what fit inside that little silver rolling suitcase:
4 pair of jeggings, 2 summer dresses, 1 pair of sandals, 10 pair of underwear, 3 bras, 1 pair pajamas, 2 scarves, 7 tops, one cashmere poncho, 1 pashmina, 1 small, flat purse. 
In the back pack I had my sundries, 1 book, 1 kindle, 1 small camera, sundries, socks, another pashmina, I-Pad,
cords for devices and a couple of snacks.  I wore my comfortable walking shoes, jeggings, shirt and a leather jacket.

Amazingly enough, I didn't wear everything that I had packed!  It was necessary to  wash out underwear a couple of times, as well as tops. I think I may have washed jeggings, too, once.  The washing was done by hand and hung to dry as electric dryers are hard to find in Italy.  But everything dried quickly overnight, so it was never a problem.  Frankly, there's something quite lovely and familiar about living so simply!  I had the time to hand wash so it wasn't a chore at all.

I'm not so certain that I could pack this lightly in colder weather but I think I will give it a try on one of my upcoming trips.  It was really rather satisfying to have one bag in the overhead compartment of the plane and one under my seat.  Try it and see if you can live more simply when traveling.  Sometimes less is more enjoyable!

Ciao,
Cheryl

Having just returned from a research trip to Italy I am still processing all the wonderful people and places I encountered. Of course, being a research trip, we stayed in five different agritourismi and ate out twice daily, so we could cultivate the most comfortable places to stay and the best food.  It was well worth the exploration and netted much valuable information. Thanks to Erica Jarman, http://www.sapori-e-saperi.com/ who invited me to spend the week of collaborative exploration for an upcoming Textiles & Tastes tour, and did incredible research beforehand, I am still reeling from all of the new information and knowledge gained.

​The Casentina, is where we started out and if you were unaware of it, is actually in Tuscany, but a remote part of that region that doesn’t seem to get much attention from travelers. We also spent time nearby in Le Marche and Umbria as they all bump up against one another. Each area had its own historical treasures and the people, once they saw our interest, were more than accommodating in sharing their traditions with us. For example, in the tiny village of Cetica there was the Ecomuseo del Carbonaio, which is mostly a lost tradition and we were interested in learning about those cultural bits that are disappearing. We arrived and due to a festival, it was closed. We found the curator and asked if he would be willing to open it for just a few minutes, which he conceded to for just “cinque minuti” (5 minutes) but once inside he kept us there for an hour and a half, so engaged in sharing with us! Now we know just how charcoal has been made for hundreds of years.

Another fascinating tradition is the wool weaving and we found several families each with a long lineage entwined in this art. We did the whole gambit; from shearing, to natural dyes to encountering the final products. We visited a small sheep farmer and witnessed the shearing of the wool so we could follow its journey to completion. The shearing is done by a traveling tradesman who goes from farm to farm. There was also cheese making in Nonna’s kitchen at this small farm which was at the end of a very long road near Bibbiena.

We spent two days at a converted monastery in Lamoli della Pace, a village of 90 people to see where the plants for natural dying happens. Max and two of his friends had curated a sweet little museum for the plant dying process using only natural plants from the area and included a history of such from other countries. The plant they referred to as Wode, which resembles any old green weed, produces the most brilliant blue color imaginable. He also teaches this tradition to adults and the school children in the area in the hopes of keeping it alive. We will hire him to give our tour group a workshop when we go back.  Imagine going out into the field behind our lodging to pick the plants that will become the colors for the wool.

We also met Patrizia at the monastery, who cooks things like fried elderberry flowers and nettle pasta from the plants in her vicinity and hugs everyone she meets because she is just a happy woman, doing what she loves. One of her neighbors came by in the morning carrying his laptop, set it up on a table in the dining room and started working.  When we started talking to him he informed us that he tells Patrizia he comes for the wifi at the B & B but, he said, “I really just come to be around Patrizia”. The setting was so peaceful and beautiful, with rolling hills and forest nearby that it was difficult to leave after two days. And the Romanesque church on the grounds contained the same beauty as the outdoors.

We then visited a museum for weaving in Stia, http://www.museodellartedellalana.it where the last weaver (her vocation for 50 years) is the docent/curator. She does workshops in all phases of weaving and the museum is a treasure of the last couple of hundred years of weaving in wool, linen, cotton and hemp. We sat and talked with her for 3 hours and then went next door to a family owned weaving business that had looms from the 1920’s, mechanized, not treadle like the museum had displayed. We spent another 2 hours there seeing the generations of change, the beautiful clothing they made, including a copy of a coat that Audrey Hepburn wore in one of her films. The history in all of these places took my breath away. And I was almost persuaded to purchase the softest cashmere coat but came to my senses. Maybe the next time I go I won’t be so disciplined.
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Citta di Castello held more treasures that were mind-blowing. We met a woman who is cultivating and saving heirloom fruit trees from all over Italy (she’s an author and just received her Ph.d in Archeologea Arboreta) and she lives in a house attached to an 1100 year old church! Her property was overwhelmingly fascinating. Then there was the Museo di Erbe in Citta http://www.abocamuseum.it which holds illuminated books and relics of old Farmacia’s from the 16th century. The care and beauty with which this museum was created makes it a must see when visiting this town.

The last place we stayed was high up above San Sepolcro where 4 generations have raised pristine cinta senese pigs for salumi cured more than 3 years! The young proprietor and his father http://www.terradimichelangelo.com/were so proud of their small business and shared all about the history, showed us the coolers for prosciutto, cooked us a fabulous meal and housed us in the most beautiful apartment; three ensuite bedrooms complete with antiques. The accommodations were stunning as were the views and the food in their small restaurant. Then we visited the Museo Civico San Sepolcro http://www.museocivicosansepolcro.it/ with the Piero della Francesca fresco that is being restored. Wow! Oh and the palazzo with private Della Robbia’s in the loggia. On our way out of town we visited the Burri exhibit at a palazzo exclusively housing his works.  His oversized canvases are mixed media using some odd and interesting materials.I’ve not mentioned the castle, hosted by a charming, noblewoman, the incredible meals & wines in remote places or the Carbonaio museo in a high mountain village of 130. Every day was filled with new and wonderful things, but it was mostly the people that were so captivating. When they saw our interest they opened up and shared the generations of knowledge and traditions that were such treasures. There was much more but I am still processing it all. Our goal is to solicit and support the existing family members, especially the young ones, in continuing these important artisan traditions. Look for our 10 day tour in 2018 and remember, we limit our small groups to ten guests.  For inquiries: 760.470.8852 or [email protected]http://www.italianexcursion.com

We didn’t just eat and drink great wines on this trip.  There were many other experiences, too.  A trip to Deruta which will be featured in another blog; two very different wine tastings; shopping frenzies in Orvieto and beyond!  And did I mention Luigi, a local man who rents out cars and vans?  So, more to come as this was a very fulfilling travel adventure.
Ciao,
Cheryl

Of course, we have shared some of our most loved places to explore in Italy, like Orvieto, Bagnoregio and Viterbo. However, fortunately for all of us, our list of small towns and villages that are quiet, un-touristed and interesting, just keeps growing. Here are a few of our favorites.

Lujnano in Teverina, is set on a wooded hill top, dedicated in ancient Roman times to the Roman God Janus (Jucus Janus, or Lugnano).There is a lovely Romanesque church in its center, called Church of Santa Maria Assunta. It is mentioned in many art books, a gem of the twelfth century and holds some important works of art. There is an alabaster Crucifix of the XV Century and the Crucifixion (Giottesque school), the triptych of Nicolo Alunno (dated 1494). The town hall also hosts a good museum, the Antiquarium, with relics from The Roman villa of Poggio Gramignano.

Not far from here is Amelia, a quiet country town, known in Roman times as Ameria. it’s surrounded by the famous cyclopean walls ( VI Century B.C.)., which you don’t see intact in too many places.

Bagnaia about the same distance from Lugnano but towards the west, houses the Villa Lante, a wonderful, complex summer estate and gardens, nearly 600 years old. The stone statues and numerous working water fountains cool the hot summer days, while one meanders in this timeless place that was once a spot for a pope’s parties.

Italian Excursion pointedly explores the undiscovered regions and sites that bring re-creation to traveling in Italy. We never tire of this wondrous, fascinating country as there is always more to see!
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Ciao,
Cheryl

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​About ten years ago I came upon an opportunity to buy a small piece of property in the beautiful farming community of Bagnoregio, Italy. Having vacationed in this funny little town for several years, I’d made many friends of the locals and word of mouth is a powerful tool in small Italian towns. This can be a good thing and maybe not so good, at times. At any rate, I ended up with more than just a property. I ended up with an incredible tale that is not yet finished.

Farm valley of Bagnoregio
It will take much too long to tell the entire story here, so it will be told in increments, maybe 3, maybe 4, depending on just how far I get with this small amount of blogging space. It starts with my friend Carlo, a German immigrant who settled in the farm valley several decades earlier, becoming a local character with friends and business associates all over the regions of Lazio and Umbria. He’s the one that invited me to think about buying a property in Bagnoregio, as I was spending so much of my time there. He actually took me to see several properties, most needing much renovation. I wasn’t convinced I could afford to buy anything but he insisted there was something available that would suit me. And indeed, Carlo heard about two acres on a hill that an old farmer wanted to sell. So, we went to see it and after climbing up the driveway and coming to the top where the little building (an old stone “barn”) stood, taking in the captivating view which was breathtaking, I knew I wanted this place for my own.

There was no electricity or water, just a hand dug well, 50 olive trees and a sickly little vineyard. But I could see the entire farm valley and the Umbrian mountains, not to mention Civita Bagnoregio, the “dying” city, which sat high above it all. Carlo was sure that my closest neighbor who’s property backed up to this one would be happy to share utility lines for a small fee.

Old stone barn doors
The farmer, an ancient looking man who came twice daily to the land to care for the animals he raised, rabbits, goats and chickens, was tired and probably saw an easy way out of the daily trips in his little three wheeled truck that putted up and down the hill at 10 miles an hours.

The timing couldn’t have been better as the Italians were still using the lire and he asked just $12,000 for the property, plus a few costs for fees, etc. There are two “contracts” for selling or buying property in Italy, the first being the deposit which is determined by the two people in negotiations. The second contract is for the remaining balance and is executed anywhere from six to 12 months later.

End of first segment: You won’t want to miss the subsequent chapters!  Especially the surprise ending!

Ciao,
Cheryl

The end of Chapter Three in this epic saga left me with my chin on the floor and my heart somewhere south of it’s usual resting place!  I had just been told by one of the relatives of the couple I was purchasing a piece of property from that she would not sign the paperwork making me owner.  Everyone else around the table had already put their “John Hancock” on the contract and she had crossed her arms emphatically stating, “no escrito”!

Viterbo, Lazio, ItalyThere was much clucking and cross talk at this point from all the others at the table.  Why?  The notaio (para-legal) finally got someone to clarify the big question of why she would not sign and evidently it was just that she indeed, did not write (escrito).  She was illiterate, as some of the older generation in small villages still are.  I proffered suggestions such as making a mark on the page, an X possibly, but apparently that was either not understood or was not legal.

After some twenty minutes of much conversation in which everyone spoke at once, seeming not to listen to one another,  decisions was made!  The county clerk would go to lunch! After that a power of attorney would be drawn up for one of the other relatives to make a signature.  Oh and did I mention that none of us were included in the lunch plans. Since the farmer’s family was not accustomed to being in the “city” or going out to restaurants to eat, we just sat around the table for two hours waiting for the clerk to come back.  I had no idea how long the clerk would actually be gone and I was determined to wait it out with the rest of the family.  They were very kind to me, shouting in Italian to ask if I needed the bagno (bathroom).  That I understood!  I’m not sure how I made it through those two hours but at long last the clerk returned with new paperwork and his hunger satiated, while my stomach gurgled and groaned about being so empty. (In hindsight I know I could have gone to eat, but not knowing all the protocol regarding the family and the fact that some had ridden in the car with me, I opted to wait it out with them rather than add another ding to my already tarnished reputation.  They had previously made clear that my poor language skills defined a major character flaw, from their viewpoint.)

A beautiful day for a drive in the country!Great!  We made it through the lunch hours, the clerk returns with the correct paperwork to complete the transaction, signatures are captured, the last of the money is exchanged and safely tucked into the patriarch’s mid-century sport coat.  I am the proud new owner of two acres, fifty olive trees, a very sick little vineyard and a gorgeous view!!! We are all smiling and shaking hands and it’s time to return to Bagnoregio with the same amount of shouting and berating of me about my poor language skills as on the drive earlier.  But this drive is much easier for me for I am now through the difficult part of this whole event.  Or so I thought.  Oh you thought this was the last chapter?

Ciao,
Cheryl